爱彼(Audemars Piguet):瑞士制表艺术的巅峰之作
在瑞士高级制表界,Audemars Piguet(爱彼) 以其大胆创新、卓越工艺和独立家族经营的传统,成为世界顶级腕表品牌之一。作为瑞士“三大制表品牌”之一(与百达翡丽、江诗丹顿齐名),爱彼以复杂功能腕表、精密机芯和独特设计闻名于世,尤其是其1972年推出的皇家橡树(Royal Oak)系列,彻底改变了奢华运动腕表的格局。
今天,我们将深入探索爱彼的品牌历史、技术创新、标志性腕表系列及其在高级制表行业的独特地位。
一、爱彼的品牌历史:独立家族制表的传奇
1.1 1875年:爱彼的诞生
🔹 1875年,朱尔斯·路易斯·奥德马(Jules Louis Audemars)与爱德华·奥古斯特·皮捷(Edward Auguste Piguet) 在瑞士汝山谷(Vallée de Joux)创立了Audemars Piguet。
🔹 两位创始人分工明确,奥德马负责机芯研发,皮捷则负责商业运营,两人致力于生产高精度复杂功能腕表。
🔹 1882年,爱彼推出首款万年历怀表,展现其卓越的制表技术。
🔹 1892年,爱彼制造了世界上第一款三问报时腕表,在钟表史上写下辉煌篇章。
📌 爱彼自创立以来,就以复杂功能和精密机械工艺闻名,并始终保持家族独立运营模式。
1.2 20世纪:不断突破制表极限
🔹 1921年,爱彼推出全球最薄怀表机芯,厚度仅1.32毫米。
🔹 1934年,推出双追针计时腕表,进一步巩固其在复杂功能腕表领域的领先地位。
🔹 1955年,推出全球首款具备跳秒功能的万年历腕表。
🔹 1972年,推出划时代的“皇家橡树(Royal Oak)”系列,奢华运动腕表的开创者。
🔹 1993年,发布皇家橡树离岸型(Royal Oak Offshore),进一步扩展运动腕表市场。
🔹 2015年,推出概念腕表Royal Oak Concept RD#1,成为史上最响亮的三问表之一。
📌 爱彼在多个领域创造历史,特别是皇家橡树系列,奠定了品牌在奢华运动腕表市场的霸主地位。
二、爱彼的制表技术与创新
2.1 高级复杂功能腕表
🔹 爱彼以制造复杂功能腕表闻名,尤其在三问、万年历、陀飞轮、计时码表等领域处于领先地位。
🔹 著名复杂功能腕表:
✅ 爱彼超薄万年历(Ref. 5548,1978年) – 全球最薄万年历腕表,仅厚3.95毫米。
✅ 皇家橡树万年历(Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar) – 兼具运动风格与顶级复杂功能。
✅ CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet 万年历 – 现代经典设计融合传统复杂功能。
📌 爱彼不仅擅长传统制表技艺,还不断挑战制表工艺极限。
2.2 皇家橡树系列:奢华运动表的开创者
🔹 1972年,爱彼推出皇家橡树(Royal Oak),开创奢华运动腕表新风潮。
🔹 设计师杰拉尔德·尊达(Gérald Genta) 以潜水头盔为灵感,创造了八角形表圈、可见螺丝、一体式表链的独特设计。
🔹 采用精钢材质,但价格高于黄金腕表,颠覆了传统高级制表市场。
🔹 1993年,爱彼推出皇家橡树离岸型(Royal Oak Offshore),尺寸更大,风格更为运动,成为许多名人的最爱。
📌 皇家橡树是奢华运动腕表的先驱,它彻底改变了高级制表行业的格局。
2.3 CODE 11.59 系列:突破传统,拥抱现代
🔹 2019年,爱彼推出CODE 11.59系列,突破皇家橡树的运动风格,回归经典正装腕表设计。
🔹 采用独特的双层表壳设计,结合圆形表圈与八角形中层表壳,展现现代美学。
🔹 机芯全部由爱彼自主研发,搭载最新的自动机芯和飞返计时机芯。
📌 CODE 11.59 是爱彼在正装腕表领域的全新突破,展现了品牌未来的发展方向。
三、爱彼的经典腕表系列
3.1 皇家橡树系列(Royal Oak)
🔹 1972年问世,全球首款奢华运动腕表,八角形表圈与一体式表链成为标志性设计。
🔹 代表性型号:
✅ Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin(15202ST) – 经典39毫米超薄款。
✅ Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – 搭载万年历功能,运动与复杂功能结合。
📌 如果你喜欢奢华运动风格,皇家橡树是终极选择。
3.2 皇家橡树离岸型(Royal Oak Offshore)
🔹 1993年推出,相比皇家橡树更具运动风格,表壳更大,设计更硬朗。
🔹 代表性型号:
✅ Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph – 运动计时码表,备受明星与运动员喜爱。
✅ Royal Oak Offshore Diver – 专业潜水腕表,防水深度达300米。
📌 如果你喜欢大尺寸、强悍风格的腕表,离岸型是绝佳选择。
3.3 CODE 11.59 系列
🔹 2019年推出,融合现代制表技术与经典美学,适合正装佩戴。
🔹 代表性型号:
✅ CODE 11.59 Perpetual Calendar – 结合现代设计与万年历功能。
✅ CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon – 搭载飞行陀飞轮,展现顶级制表工艺。
📌 如果你喜欢低调奢华与现代设计,CODE 11.59 是最佳选择。
四、为什么选择爱彼?
✨ 瑞士三大制表品牌之一,历史悠久,工艺卓越。
✨ 皇家橡树是奢华运动腕表的鼻祖,独一无二的标志性设计。
✨ 复杂功能腕表领域的佼佼者,拥有超薄万年历、三问报时等顶级工艺。
✨ 始终保持家族独立经营,专注于制表艺术,而非市场妥协。
⏳ 如果你追求真正的机械艺术和独特个性,爱彼无疑是你的终极选择! ✨
Audemars Piguet: The Pinnacle of Swiss Haute Horlogerie
Among the world’s most prestigious Swiss watchmakers, Audemars Piguet (AP) stands out as a brand that masterfully blends heritage, innovation, and avant-garde design. As one of the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking—alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin—Audemars Piguet is renowned for its high complications, impeccable craftsmanship, and independent family ownership.
The Royal Oak collection, introduced in 1972, revolutionized the luxury watch industry, creating the luxury sports watch segment that dominates the market today. With its dedication to pushing the boundaries of technical innovation, avant-garde aesthetics, and high-end mechanical mastery, Audemars Piguet remains one of the most revered names in horology.
In this article, we will explore the history, technical innovations, iconic watch collections, and the brand’s standing in haute horlogerie.
1. The History of Audemars Piguet: A Legacy of Independent Watchmaking
1.1 1875: The Founding of Audemars Piguet
🔹 Founded in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet specialized in high-precision, complicated movements.
🔹 Audemars focused on mechanical innovation, while Piguet handled commercial operations, ensuring the brand’s early success.
🔹 1882: The brand introduced its first perpetual calendar pocket watch, showcasing its expertise in complications.
🔹 1892: Audemars Piguet created the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch, marking a significant milestone in horology.
📌 Audemars Piguet established itself early as a pioneer in high complications, and its independence remains a cornerstone of the brand’s identity.
1.2 The 20th Century: Mastering Complications and Redefining Watchmaking
🔹 1921: Audemars Piguet developed the world’s thinnest pocket watch movement, measuring only 1.32mm.
🔹 1934: Introduced the double chronograph (split-seconds) complication, further solidifying its technical expertise.
🔹 1955: Released the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch with leap year indication.
🔹 1972: The groundbreaking Royal Oak was launched, forever changing the luxury watch landscape.
🔹 1993: The Royal Oak Offshore was introduced, ushering in a new era of bold, oversized sports watches.
🔹 2015: The Royal Oak Concept RD#1 was unveiled, featuring one of the loudest minute repeaters ever made.
📌 Audemars Piguet has continuously led the industry with technical innovations, particularly in high-complication movements and avant-garde designs.
2. Audemars Piguet’s Technical Innovations
2.1 Haute Complications: Masters of Perpetual Calendars and Minute Repeaters
🔹 Audemars Piguet is renowned for its expertise in grand complications, including perpetual calendars, tourbillons, minute repeaters, and chronographs.
🔹 Notable High-Complication Models:
✅ Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5548, 1978) – One of the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar watches, measuring only 3.95mm thick.
✅ Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – Combines sportiness with one of horology’s most intricate complications.
✅ CODE 11.59 Perpetual Calendar – A contemporary take on classic haute horlogerie complications.
📌 Audemars Piguet’s complications blend technical mastery with contemporary aesthetics, making them highly desirable among collectors.
2.2 The Royal Oak: Birth of the Luxury Sports Watch
🔹 In 1972, Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta, marking the birth of the luxury sports watch.
🔹 Inspired by a diving helmet, the Royal Oak’s octagonal bezel, exposed screws, and integrated bracelet created a disruptive and futuristic aesthetic.
🔹 Made from stainless steel but priced higher than gold watches at the time, it defied traditional norms and became an instant icon.
🔹 1993: The Royal Oak Offshore debuted, featuring larger case dimensions and a sportier design, making it a favorite among athletes and celebrities.
📌 The Royal Oak transformed the industry and remains one of the most sought-after luxury watches today.
2.3 CODE 11.59: A Modern Horological Masterpiece
🔹 In 2019, Audemars Piguet launched the CODE 11.59 collection, moving beyond its iconic Royal Oak designs.
🔹 The case design features a unique octagonal middle case combined with a round bezel, blending modern and classic aesthetics.
🔹 Houses 100% in-house manufactured movements, including the latest automatic calibers and flyback chronograph movements.
📌 CODE 11.59 represents Audemars Piguet’s next generation of contemporary haute horlogerie.
3. Audemars Piguet’s Iconic Watch Collections
3.1 Royal Oak: The Ultimate Luxury Sports Watch
🔹 Launched in 1972, redefining what a luxury watch could be with its octagonal bezel, integrated bracelet, and exposed screws.
🔹 Signature Models:
✅ Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin (15202ST) – A 39mm ultra-thin version, staying true to the 1972 design.
✅ Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar – Merging the elegance of a perpetual calendar with the sportiness of the Royal Oak.
📌 If you want the ultimate luxury sports watch, the Royal Oak is the gold standard.
3.2 Royal Oak Offshore: The Bold, Oversized Statement Piece
🔹 Introduced in 1993, designed to be bigger, bolder, and sportier than the original Royal Oak.
🔹 Signature Models:
✅ Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph – A rugged and oversized take on the classic Royal Oak design.
✅ Royal Oak Offshore Diver – Designed for deep-sea diving, water-resistant up to 300 meters.
📌 For those who love statement pieces, the Offshore is the ultimate power watch.
3.3 CODE 11.59: A Contemporary Horological Vision
🔹 Introduced in 2019, blending traditional watchmaking with modern aesthetics.
🔹 Signature Models:
✅ CODE 11.59 Perpetual Calendar – A contemporary take on an AP classic complication.
✅ CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon – Showcasing AP’s high-end mechanical mastery.
📌 For those who prefer modern elegance over the Royal Oak’s sporty aesthetic, CODE 11.59 is an excellent choice.
4. Why Choose Audemars Piguet?
✨ One of the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmaking, renowned for its legacy and craftsmanship.
✨ Inventor of the luxury sports watch with the revolutionary Royal Oak.
✨ Masters of haute complications, including ultra-thin perpetual calendars and minute repeaters.
✨ A family-owned, independent brand focused on artistry rather than mass production.
⏳ If you seek a timepiece that combines cutting-edge innovation with timeless craftsmanship, Audemars Piguet is the ultimate choice! ✨
后记
2025年2月15日18点14分于上海。在GPT4o大模型辅助下完成。